It took a long decade prior to my second visit in Vigan. Back in my heydays as a student, I had the chance to explore Vigan with my classmates as part of our Ilocos Region excursion. This time around, it was so remarkably different when I went on a solo-backpacking to visit the UNESCO world heritage site. Vigan was also recently announced as one of the New7Wonders Cities.
Around five in the morning, I got off the bus somewhere in Bantay. Although a neighboring town, one could easily spot a welcome arch of Vigan. A leisurely walk was a great idea heading to the town proper. So, I just kept moving with my legs instead of hiring a trike. I had a gut feeling it was just within walking distance. And Wah Lah... in less than 10 minutes, I reached the historical Hispanic Town!
I continued my walk around Plaza Salcedo that brought me to the Archbishop's Plaza, the Provincial Capitol and Vigan City Hall. Historians say that the central park was the site of the execution of Gabriela Silang. In 1763, the heroine was publicly hanged to death. At present, Plaza Salcedo has been one of the major attractions in Vigan. That very early morning, the park was so busy where people were flexing their muscles through Zumba group excercise and jogging. There were also photographers and bystanders in the park. In the middle of it all, I noticed the park's lagoon. I never knew of a fountain in Vigan from my previous visit. Too bad I won't be able to watch a fountain show in the evening because I would have to leave before dusk.
I just went straight to the church. Unbelievably, the Baroque-style Vigan Cathedral (or St. Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral) has withstood the test of time since its completion in 1800. With its unattached bell tower, they have surpassed earthquakes and storms side by side for years. Immediately beside the cathedral is another park called Plaza Burgos where I saw some children playing Filipino street games.
Finally after a few more steps, I reached Calle Crisologo. This portion of the city remained relatively intact despite wars and natural calamities. It's where time seemed to have stopped.
Anyone would instantly experience being transported back in time with plying calesas on cobble stone streets and existing heritage houses.
The houses' designs are fusion of Filipino-Chinese and Spanish architecture built with red tiled roofs, huge entrance doors, stone basement walls, and sliding capiz shell windows. The owners of the houses are decendants of prominent Filipino-Chinese traders before and during Spanish colonization.
Presently, some houses were transformed into stores, souvenir shops, restaurants, guest houses and museums. This only proves that the ingenious designs of the ancestral houses are still relevant up to the modern times.
According to Vigan's official website, there are 187 residential, institutional, commercial and religious structures that are well preserved. The famous half-kilometer street is as appealing as a any place can be but the difference is the culture, heritage and a rich history behind it. I even heard a story that Vigan was saved during World War II. The place was supposed to be bombarded but Japanese General Major Sakae Narioka commanded his soldiers to depart to the further north of the Luzon island. His purpose was to intentionally spare his beloved wife and child in Vigan from any danger. A love story saved the city!
It's time to eat. I chose eating Empanada over dining in a resto to feel "the real Vigan" . Around the complex, one would simply notice the implication of consumerist culture with the presence of Mc Donald's, Max's, Chowking, Jollibee and the Plaza Maestro Commercial Center.
In harmony with the the old city's ambiance, these business establisments complied with Vigan Municipal Ordinance No. 04 Series of 2000: AN ORDINANCE ENACTING THE PRESERVATION AND CONSERVATION GUIDELINES FOR VIGAN ANCESTRAL HOUSES- SECTION 16. GUIDELINES FOR INFILLING AND NEW ARCHITECTURE.
I admit, their architectural designs are amazing. However, I just thought they're eyesores which somehow distract the idea of a heritage city. Zoning is really significant in defining the historic character of the place. However, I must say- Commercialization is unstoppable... and of course, money talks.
Ending my Vigan trip, I thought nothing much has changed. But, I must say, a lot has changed. Change is inevitable, as they say. But, there are some things that we must retain unchanged so that the future generations will still have a chance to see, feel, experience and learn something from the past.
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